The Brogues

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Brogues are sturdy leather lace-ups with decorative perforations. Designed for the country, they have since transcended their rural origins, while retaining an air of informality when worn in town.

The brogue (derived from the Gaelicbróg (Irish), bròg (Scottish) 'shoe')^[1][2] is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterised by multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations (or 'broguing') and serration along the pieces' visible edges.^[3]

Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear not otherwise appropriate for casual or business occasions, but brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts.^[4] Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe cap styles (full or 'wingtip', semi-, quarter and longwing) and four closure styles (Oxford, Derby, ghillie, and monk). Today, in addition to their typical form of sturdy leather shoes or boots, brogues may also take the form of business dress shoes, sneakers, high-heeled women's shoes, or any other shoe form that utilises or evokes the multi-piece construction and perforated, serrated piece edges characteristic of brogues.

History[edit]

Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Ireland and Scotland that was constructed using untanned hide.^[5] Modern brogues feature decorative perforations. These are often said to stem from the original Irish brogues as well, specifically from holes intended to allow water to drain from the shoes when the wearer crossed wet terrain such as a bog. However, contemporary descriptions of the original brogues do not mention such holes.^[5] The word 'brogue' came into English in the late sixteenth century. It comes from the Gaelicbróg (Irish), bròg (Scottish) 'shoe', from the Old Norse 'brók' meaning 'leg covering'.^[1][2] The Scots word brogue^[6] is also used to denote a bradawl or boring tool as well as the action of piercing with such a tool.^[7]

The word 'brogue' was first used to describe a form of outdoor, country walking shoe in the early twentieth century traditionally worn by men.^[1] At that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. Over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts, including business.^[4] Brogues continue to be most common as leather dress and casual shoes and boots, but can also be found in many other forms including canvas and leather sneakers and high-heeled women's shoes.

Styles[edit]

Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe-cap styles (full or 'wingtip' brogues, semi-brogues, quarter brogues and longwing brogues) and four closure styles (Oxford, Derby, ghillie and monk strap). Most commonly offered as a leather dress shoe, brogues may also come in the form of boots, canvas or leather sneakers or any other shoe type that includes or evokes the multi-piece construction and perforated, serrated edges characteristic of brogues.

Toe caps[edit]

Brogue styles are determined by the shape of the toe cap and include the commonly available full brogue (or 'wingtip' in the United States), semi-brogue and quarter brogue styles, and may also be found in the less common longwing brogue style.

Full brogues (or wingtips)[edit]

Full brogues (also known as wingtips) are characterised by a pointed toe cap with extensions (wings) that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot. Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is 'W' shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, explaining the style name 'wingtips' that is commonly used in the United States. The toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. A shoe with a wingtip-style toecap but no perforations is known as an 'austerity brogue', while a plain-toe shoe with wingtip-style perforations is a 'blind brogue'.

Spectator shoes (British English: Co-respondent shoes) are full brogue Oxfords constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker color than the main body of the shoe.^[3][8] Common color combinations include a white shoe body with either black or tan caps, but other colours can be used.

Ghillie brogues[edit]

The ghillie style of full brogue has no tongue, to facilitate drying, and long laces that wrap around the leg above the ankle and tie below the calf to facilitate keeping the tie clear of mud. Despite the functional aspects of their design, ghillie brogues are most commonly seen as a component of traditional, formal Scottish dress and are worn primarily for social occasions.

Semi-brogues (or half brogues)[edit]

Semi-brogues (also known as half brogues) are characterised by a toe cap with decorative perforations and serration along the cap's edge and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. The half brogue was first designed and produced by John Lobb Ltd. as an Oxford in 1937 in an effort to offer his customers a shoe more stylish than a plain oxford, yet not as bold as a full brogue.

Quarter brogues[edit]

Quarter brogues are characterised by a cap toe with decorative perforations and serrations along the cap's edge, however, unlike semi-brogues, quarter brogues have no decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. Quarter brogues are more formal than semi brogues and full brogues; they are the most formal of dress shoes with brogueing, making them the ideal fit to pair with business attire (suits).

Longwing brogues[edit]

Longwing brogues (also known in the US as 'English' brogues, and in the UK as 'American' brogues)^{[citation needed]} are Derby style shoes characterised by a pointed toe cap with wings that extend the full length of the shoe, meeting at a center seam at the heel. Longwing Derby brogues were most popular in the US during the 1970s, and although the popularity of this style has decreased, it remains available.

Closures[edit]

Closure style is not a defining characteristic of the brogue and therefore brogues can be found in a variety of closure styles. Brogues are commonly available in laced Oxford, Derby or ghillie styles, but can also be found as buckle and monk strap shoes and slip-on shoes with or without elastic closures.

See also[edit]

Notes[edit]

1. ^ ^abcWord-Origins.com 2010.
2. ^ ^abOxford 2016.
3. ^ ^abDrummond 2010.
4. ^ ^abctshirts.co.uk 2010.
5. ^ ^abSparkes Hall 1847, p. 71.
6. ^DSL brogue 2004.
7. ^DSL brog 2004.
8. ^Schur, Ehrlich & Ehrlich 2007, p. 87.

References[edit]

• 'Dictionary of the Scots Language', Dictionary of the Scots Language, Scottish Language Dictionaries, 2004, retrieved 7 October 2016, 1. n. (1) A bradawl; a boring instrument; a goad. 2. v. To prick, pierce;
• 'Dictionary of the Scots Language', Dictionary of the Scots Language, Scottish Language Dictionaries, 2004, retrieved 7 October 2016, BROGUE, Brog, Broag, n.1 A rough Highland shoe of untanned hide, stitched with thongs of leather. Orig. Irish and Sc. but now St.Eng. and used everywhere to denote a heavy shoe of any kind. Also dim. brogan.
• 'Oxford Living Dictionary'. Oxford Living Dictionary. Oxford University Press. 2016. Retrieved 7 October 2016. BROGUE: 1.1 A rough shoe of untanned leather, formerly worn in parts of Ireland and the Scottish Highlands.
• Drummond, Sharon (2010). 'History of Footwear – Resources – Glossary'. History of Footwear. Ryerson University. Archived from the original on 4 October 2010. Retrieved 4 October 2010. Brogue: A laced shoe with many sections, which are punched and serrated around the edges.CS1 maint: ref=harv (link)
• Sparkes Hall, Joseph (1847). The Book of the Feet – A History of Boots and Shoes (From the Second London ed.). New York: William H. Graham. Retrieved 4 October 2010. It was formerly made of untanned hide..CS1 maint: ref=harv (link)
• Schur, Norman W.; Ehrlich, Eugene H.; Ehrlich, Richard (2007) [1987]. British English A to Zed (Third, revised and updated ed.). New York City, United States of America: Facts on File, Inc. ISBN978-0-8160-6456-4. Retrieved 4 November 2010. The flashy, disreputable type, usually in brown and whiteCS1 maint: ref=harv (link)
• 'Best foot forward – The Charles Tyrwhitt guide to shoe design classics'. ctshirts.co.uk. Charles Tyrwhitt LLP. 2010. Archived from the original on 4 October 2010. Retrieved 4 October 2010. Once seen as solely appropriate for country jaunts, the brogue has now been embraced as one of the most versatile of shoes, pretty much acceptable everywhere.
• 'Brogue – Word Origin and History'. Word-Origins.com. Word-Origins.com. 2010. Archived from the original on 4 October 2010. Retrieved 4 October 2010. The word, Irish and Scots Gaelic brōg, comes from Old Norse brók 'leg covering'..
• 'John Lobb Ltd. Bootmaker – Commemorative Catalogue – Half Brogue Oxford'. johnlobbltd.co.uk. John Lobb Ltd. 2010. Archived from the original on 4 October 2010. Retrieved 4 October 2010. This particular style..was first created by JOHN LOBB some eighty years ago when shoes first began to take the place of boots.

External links[edit]

• Media related to Brogues at Wikimedia Commons

Even for men who live in trainers, there’s a certain excitement that comes with stepping into ‘proper’ shoes. Particularly when they’re as storied as brogues. The style’s distinctive perforations were designed initially as an escape valve for bog water, favoured by Irish farmers who spent half their working day stomping through submerged fields.

For much of its life, the brogue stayed firmly in the country; appropriate for hikes, never in town. But in the 1930s, the then-Prince of Wales (future king and style icon) adopted the style for golf, pairing his with a grey lounge suit. The holes were suddenly seen as decorative, not practical, and the brogue went on to become a flamboyant staple in jazz clubs.

Although broguing is most common on Oxford shoes, because the moniker refers to the perforations, not the construction, examples are almost limitless. Heritage British shoemaker Grenson even teamed up with Boston-based New Balance on a brogued sneaker, all holey, caramel leather, but with a running shoe’s midsole and shape.

This variety has helped the brogue become one of the most versatile shoes in men’s wardrobes; depending on the construction and level of decoration (as a rule of thumb, the busier the toe cap, the less formal the shoe), it wears with everything from a suit to shorts, everywhere from the office to beer gardens.

That longevity and versatility means it’s worth investing – no other type of shoes in your wardrobe will get as many outings or last as long, which brings the cost-per-wear down to pence.

Ready to put your best foot forward? Here’s what to look for when shopping for your next pair and all the brands worthy of your hard-earned.

Grenson

4 Key Types Of Brogue

Wingtip

Not all brogues are wingtips, and not all wingtip shoes have to be brogues. Confusing? A wingtip is defined by the ‘W’ or wing-shaped piece of leather that overlaps the toe area of the shoe – as long as it has that, it’s a wingtip. However, most brogues tend to feature it, hence the confusion. Also known as a full brogue they come in all manner of shapes, from more casual Derby shoes to suit-ready Oxfords and even two-tone styles that wouldn’t look out of place on the feet of a 1950s jazz band.

Oliver Sweeney

Semi Brogue

Don’t want to go the whole hog? A semi brogue does away with the additional fanciness of the wingtip and often comes in Oxford format, meaning with its closed vamp it’s inherently smarter. As a result the semi brogue could be the ideal work shoe – it’s smart enough for boardroom meetings yet has all the character of a full brogue.

Angelo Nardelli

Quarter Brogue

The quarter brogue is very similar to the semi, yet it takes things in a more minimalistic direction by removing the perforated ‘medallion’ on the toe cap. What you’re left with is the most formal of all brogue styles, especially when rendered as an Oxford. Wear this style strictly with your finest suits and think special occasions – weddings, job interviews and graduations are all fair game.

Dune London

Longwing Brogue

We’re getting into the nitty gritty now. A longwing brogue is essentially a simpler version of the regular wingtip brogue. The only different being a straight line with the wingtip extending across the entire side of the shoe, rather than trailing off. Look for one with a chunky rubber sole and wear all throughout winter.

Cheaney Shoes

What To Look For

Material

The reward of shoes that go with pretty much anything, anywhere only comes with picking the right pair. “Look for real leather linings and uppers wherever possible,” says Steffan Stafhill, founder of English footwear brand Northern Cobbler. “Synthetic materials won’t react to heat and sweat, meaning they’re less likely to mould to your shape and less likely to be comfortable in the long run.”

Most brogues are made from calf leather, but depending how formal you want to go, you can swap the tried and tested out for a suede variation, though these are not best suited to treading the soggy marshes.

Construction

You don’t need to be a master cordwainer (the official name of a shoemaker rather than ‘cobbler’ which simply repairs them) to be able to spot a well-made stomper.

The gold standard is Goodyear-welting, a method of attaching the sole to the upper that leaves a tell-tale stitch mark where they meet. As well as making your brogues more durable, it also means a cobbler can easily switch the soles out when they get too worn. Vital, considering a decent pair should last long enough to hand down to your kids.

Colour

The first brogues most men own are often tan in colour. That’s because relaxing style rules mean in the present day brown isn’t just for town, but the office, too. While this is a good entry shade, a navy two-piece with dark brown versions makes for an equally handsome and boardroom-appropriate look.

Once you’ve got that look down, graduate to a sleeker black version and even brogue boots to benefit from easy pairings with both dark denim and suits.

The Best Brands For Brogues

Grenson

Grenson was the first shoemaker to use the Goodyear-welted construction technique as far back as the mid-1800s, and its innovation didn’t stop there.

For a contemporary update, the heritage firm also produces brogue styles with a contrasting rubber wedge sole that still holds on to all the details of the classic shoe.

Marks & Spencer

While dress shoes are often rightly referred to as investment pieces, department store offerings aren’t to be overlooked.

High street stalwart Marks & Spencer wins on both style and price, with a wide offering that includes almost every style of brogue listed above in every wearable colour. It even stocks a vegan brogue if you’re interested.

Tricker’s

Buy a pair of Tricker’s brogues and you can give your card details confident that you’re buying from one of the oldest British-made shoemakers in the country. Some 260 steps are involved in their hand-made construction, which is why you’re paying more than you would on the high street.

Walk away in some of the best traditional-looking brogues, ever.

Oliver Sweeney

A welcome halfway house between expensive hand-made shoes and too-cheap high street options, Oliver Sweeney is a tempting mix of accessible prices and traditional practices. Its shoes have been made at the same Italian factory for the last 20 years and feature hand-picked leathers and other top-drawer materials.

A little dandier than some of the brands on our list, these brogues tend to be especially decorative.

Church’s

Another legendary Northamptonshire shoemaker with more than a century of knowhow behind it, Church’s makes proper shoes the proper way (at proper prices we should add). Its wide range of brogues cover every type and colour you’ll care about and if that doesn’t give you enough confidence, perhaps this will. James Bond gets his shoes here.

Crockett & Jones

Crocket & Jones have been in business since the 1870s and even now, the company boasts of the eight painstaking weeks it takes to make every pair of shoe it sells.

Few brands do elegance like these guys (the Prince of Wales gave them a royal warrant in 2017) so they’re especially good for more formal styles like a quarter brogue.

River Island

If the shoe fits, wear it. If it doesn’t, head to River Island. To go with its Big and Tall clothing range, the high street store also produces shoes up to size 13 and with wide-fit cuts for the big foots (feet?) out there.

We’re particularly fond of its suede styles, which allow you to incorporate some subtle texture and colour into your footwear game.

Base London

Sitting at the sartorial intersection between quality and affordability since 1995, Base London has produced high-quality brogues for more than two decades.

The British brand makes this list for the sheer volume of models on offer, running the gamut from hi-shine leather to styles with check fabric panelling.

Ted Baker

Want to get in on the brogue game without giving up your casual lean? Hunt out a sleek pair of shoes from Ted Baker.

The British brand regularly fuses classic design sensibilities with modern touches like contrasting laces or iridescent leathers for a finish that will do anything but blend in.

Paul Smith

Sir Paul Smith doesn’t do boring. Even the most traditional smart shoes get a twist or a pop of colour when they come out with his name on them, and the same is true of his eponymous brand’s brogues.

Look out for contrast (and comfortable) rubber soles, two-tone leathers and other touches that will make your feet stand out.

Dune

Twenty years on the British high street (and in 10 other countries around the world) teaches you a lot about what the average guy wants to wear on his feet. That’s evident in Dune’s people-pleasing collection of brogues, which span old favourites like chocolate brown wingtips right through to rubber soles, unconventional colours and even a brogue monk strap or two.

Thom Browne

Less formal than standard smooth leather, but no less natty, grained leather offers a tactile take on the standard brogue. Dc pandey mechanics 2 pdf.

American luxe label Thom Browne uses a longwing style, where the broguing on the toe extends round to the back of the shoe. The brand’s signature tri-colour even makes an appearance as a heel pull.